The HyperVac vacuum pumps
are basic oil sealed rotary vane pumps known for years. These pumps are driven by a motor
connected directly to the pump using a coupling arrangement. The rotor is offset in and
rotates off-center in the stator. The rotor has 2 opposing slots cut in it where the vanes
sit and ride in and out maintaining constant contact with the stator using a spring to
maintain constant pressure as it rotates eccentrically in the stator. These pumps are
relatively simple in operation and are easy to repair. Because of the assembly and
manufacturing processes each pump is very consistent and the parts are not unique, are
interchangeable and often can even be refurbished. Because they are simple, they are
easily repaired using the exploded view diagrams in the manual.
These pumps operate at 1725 rpm 115V 60Hz or 1450 rpm at 220V 50Hz (overseas
voltages). They are typified by forced oil lubrication using a gear pump on the end of the
pump module. The HyperVac pumps are a fast, quiet and dependable. They use a light
viscosity oil and operate at lower temperatures than their belt driven cousins.
They vary in size from 100L/minute to large 1500L/minute and can tolerate small
leaks in a system.
These pumps are extensively used in
laboratories, neon manufacture, degassing,
vacuum ovens and a myriad of other applications. They tend to be extremely quiet and are
an excellent choice in a research environment. They are a new generation pump and have
large oil sight glasses. They can be hooked up to external oil filtration systems. They
employ quick disconnect flanges on inlet and exhaust ports.
The HyperVac pump is tough to have "no" vacuum present on. It is
possible, but unusual.
First off inspect the pump for correct
Second inspect the intake port clamp, usually attached to a hose nipple (inlet
port), for a bad clamp or connection.
Assuming adequate oil and lubrication has been inspected and is present. Try to
find a flash light and review rotation of drive shaft between pump and motor.
Generally, assuming no vacuum often means no pump rotation, then your pump may
have one of the following problems.
First possibility, the motor or pump coupling set screw has dislodged and is no
longer attached well to pump or motor shaft. You need to inspect the shaft for wear and
you may need a new shaft key, drive coupling, coupling spider or a new drive shaft.
Second the vanes are stuck in the rotor. Your pump rotates but vanes are not
working. Your vane springs and vane spring pins could be shot. Vanes stuck in out
(no rotation) or stuck in in position (rotation but no vacuum).
Third all valving on the top of the stators is kaput.
Fourth no oil lubrication through pump. Passageways clogged or oil pump in need
of repair. The pump has to have adequate lubrication to create vacuum and function
First off inspect the pump for
oil level and oil quality.
Second inspect the inlet port for a good seal, or clamp. I can't tell you how
many pumps we get with bizarre fittings on the inlet that leak like sieves.
Assuming adequate oil quality and lubrication has been inspected and is present.
If the pump is rotating and still low vacuum pressures (500 micron or so) are present then
turn the pump off. Best guess is the exhaust valves on the exhaust stator are broken. The
pump needs repair or overhaul.
The pump is locked up
Well you gone and done it now. Check the pump for oil. Fill to
correct level and manually actuate pump, assuming you can. Sometimes it is possible to
manually actuate a pump back into service using the drive coupling on back of pump. This
means disconnecting the pump from the motor to review. Other potential problem areas
include vanes stuck in up or out position. See "No vacuum" section above. Call
us if you are unsuccessful. The pump needs repair or overhaul.
Oil problems come in various shapes and styles and are highly
dependant on the vacuum pressure the user is trying to achieve. Because there are many
questions related to oil in our type of pumps we have a separate section just for oil
questions and tech support. Hot link to Oil Problems.
Why is the pump leaking oil?
Vacuum pumps can leak from 3 basic locations and their causes can
be various. The first area and main culprit to examine is the shaft seal area of the pump.
This is a mechanically rotating shaft in an area that can wear and then leak over time.
The HyperVac style vacuum pumps employ a new generation lip seal in a number of locations.
Usually underneath the pump is shiny from the oil. Also running the pump for a period of
time on top of a sheet of newspaper can help pinpoint a leaks location.
The second most common location is from the pumps exhaust port. If the pump is
operated at high pressures less than 28" of mercury vacuum, then high gas flows
create high levels of lubricant agitation inside the pump which can exit the pump, come
down the sides of the pump and create what can be construed as a leak. If this is observed
to be your problem we can enclose the top of the pump and trap the exhaust of the pump
using an exhaust filter or by enabling the user to port the exhaust to a nearby
"hood". This will help keep the oil and associated oil mist inside your vacuum
pump. Because the HyperVac pump uses industry standard flange fittings on intake and
exhaust ports a bunch of options are available to simplify and deal with the problem.
The second solution is to make sure your system is really, vacuum tight because
the cause of this problem is basically trying to evacuate a leaky system.
The pump will operate over extended periods with this symptom but it is
important to monitor the oil level of the pump on a regular basis. Oil often leaves
the pump in the form of oil mist which if left unattended will eventually exhaust all the
oil from the pump.
Water in the Pump
Water in the Pump
Hot link for the answers
. This is a big very common problem. One of our
most common problems is water in the pump.
Why is it bad? Corrosion. Pump
How does it happen? Waters vapor pressure less than pumps maximum vacuum
How do I tell? Oil is milky colored. Rust in oil and pump.
What are solutions? Freeze those water molecules using a device known as a cold
Pump is corroded. Why?
Water or acids have been present in pump for an extended period of
time. See also water in the pump.
I think all high vacuum pumps are made from cast iron predominately, aluminum
and steel secondarily. We tried making one totally from stainless steel and will revisit
sometime in future but in a nut shell, it failed. Cast iron and water don't get along.
This is the same for acids like hydrochloric or sulphuric. The tend to attack the cast
iron of the pump and cause oxidation or rust to form. On the outside this is ok but left
standing, formation starts internal to the pump and will cause the pump to seize up after
some period of time days to years depending on contaminant source and level of attack.
I have seen ads for corrosion resistant pumps. Right
., great marketing
ploy. They fail in 4 months instead of 3. Spend your money elsewhere on solutions that
work. There is no cheap solution only correct ones. Teflon coating
vacuum pumps lock up because the rust forms on the cast iron rotating parts
"period". No Teflon coating is going to last long with the metal to metal
contact that we have in rotary vane pumps. Coating the oil sump with
Teflon protects the
aluminum housing. I have never seen a pump yet with an uncoated aluminum housing eaten
through, although I have seen thousands of pumps with corroded cast iron parts.
The basic fact of the matter is contaminants must be eliminated from the pump.
You can either deal with it before the pump or after it gets in the pump. For systems with
high contamination potential then probably both types of systems are required. For the
front end or suction side of the pump, employ a vacuum inlet trap. For dealing with
contamination once it is in the pump consider an oil filtration system that can be hooked
up to the pump to recirculate and deacidify or dewater the oil.
The poor users solution to oil contamination problems "Change the oil
frequently". Create a larger oil sump that takes longer to get contaminated
Why is the pump is slow to pull
Assuming the pump is OK (see below). You have air leaks in you
system, collapsing vacuum hoses or contaminants which cause "out
system for leaks (Link to procedures). Fix leaks and time again. Remove contaminants.
How can I check my pump to see
if it is OK?
Hook you pump up to a good vacuum gauge at the pump intake port with
out the system attached in any manner. This is the best and only real way to baseline the
pump. In problem areas or troubleshooting vacuum systems this is the first step in the
process. Determine the "blank off" pressure of the vacuum pump. For a HyperVac
the blank off pressure is 1 micron or .001mm and for those with inexpensive vacuum gauges
roughly 7 micron, .007mm with thermocouple or TC gauge. And for you real mizers out there,
29.99 with Bourdon Tube 0-30" gauges and between 0 and 1mm with manometers (0-760) in
both cases depending on atmospheric pressure variables. When at full vacuum there
should be very little if any oil mist and the pump will be extremely quiet and just sit
there and hum.
How do I capture the exhaust?
The HyperVac model pump requires only an exhaust filter of correct
size that allows for capture of the exhaust fumes. This can be ordered from HyVac for this
use. As an alternative you then hook up an exhaust line and port the exhaust to a hood or
adapt it to an exhaust filter then to the hood. The HyperVac vacuum pumps all have a
standard exhaust port as part of their design. Exhaust filters are very easy to
My hose nipple is too big / too
HyVac Products stocks and manufactures a myriad of solutions for
conforming to a users system. If we don't have it, we can get it. HyVac manufactures both
conventional hose fittings and also the newer generation quick disconnect vacuum fittings
often referred to as NW or ISO or KF fittings, flanges, piping, adapters and clamps which
allow a wide variety of connection sizes and terminations.
How do I change the oil?
Generally we recommend changing the oil through the exhaust port of
any high vacuum pump. This port generally is a straight dump into the oil sump of most
vacuum pumps. The intake port should only be used as a last resort, is slow but ultimately
acceptable. Manual pump rotation probably will be necessary to accomplish. Drain
the oil through the screw fitting in front of pump near the name plate and at lower 1/4
section of pump. It helps if pump has been running and if possible tilt to
Other problem areas not covered.
You get em to me, I'll post